battered suitcases.

Night's nice for making a wish

2012-01-25T20:31:00.001+04:00

and here's why.*

Turtle Tower sits to one side in Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi. This is what it looks like at night.

xo, jill

*from Night's Nice by Barbara and Ed Emberley

Hanoi Hilton

2012-01-24T18:54:00.002+04:00

Lost in translation.

A very interesting site in Hanoi to visit is the Hoa Lo Prison. I didn't take too many photos because really, it's kind of an eerie place. Before visiting I only had a vague idea of the prison. I knew it was where American prisoners of war were kept, but that's about it. Turns out, before the Vietnamese used the prison to jail the Americans, the French used the prison to jail the Vietnamese.

Built in the late 1880s while Vietnam was under French rule, the prison was used to detain Vietnamese political prisoners. Naturally, the Vietnamese people wished to govern themselves and to be free of foreign powers. The French did everything possible to prevent that from happening. Torture, executions, and miserable living conditions were the norm. For example, the prison was built to hold 600 prisoners but in 1954 (when France withdrew) it held 2,000.

This is a sewer drain that Vietnamese political prisoners escaped through.

The displays at Hoa Lo Prison are quite somber...that is until you get to the American side.

John McCain's flight suit.

The Vietnamese are eager to show how well American prisoners were treated during the Vietnam War. There are photos of Christmas parties and cheerful artwork made by prisoners displayed on the wall. You'd think they were having a pretty good time. A video even stated that the prisoners were so well cared for at the prison that they gave it the nickname, "Hanoi Hilton." I think sarcasm must get lost in translation.

Pulling John McCain out of the water.

Christmas parties.

I will admit to being really confused. Although I'm not a Vietnam War scholar, I learned enough during high school history class and the McCain campaign to know it wasn't all ping pong and dance parties for the POWs. When we returned to our hotel room a quick Google search confirmed what we already suspected. It was a pretty nasty place.

Visiting the Hoa Lo Prison was a good reminder for me that there are many different perspectives to history.

xo, jill

Temple of Literature

2012-01-23T15:12:00.004+04:00

Reading is sexy.

After lunching at KOTO, we crossed the street to the Temple of Literature. The temple was first built in 1070 and is dedicated to Confucius and scholars. In addition, the Temple of Literature was the first university in Vietnam. It focused on training princes and other talented men with the focus on benefiting the country.

Photo by Mike

The next stop on our sightseeing itinerary: the Hanoi Hilton.

xo, jill

Seeing more sights.

2012-01-22T17:36:00.001+04:00

First pretty, then informative, and followed by delicious.

After visiting Ho Chi Minh's stilt house we strolled over to another popular spot, the One Pillar Pagoda. I didn't know this at the time but the temple was built in 1049 by the Emperor to demonstrate gratitude over the birth of a son. I just thought it was pretty.

Next we walked over to the Ho Chi Minh museum, which details the country's struggle against foreign powers.

Tip: Go upstairs! We started on the main floor and quickly grew a little bored reading newspaper clippings and journal entries. Luckily, Mike made us climb the stairs to where the interesting exhibits reside. From now on I might just start visiting the second floor of museums first. (The interesting bits at the Gandhi museum are upstairs too.)

By this time we were ready for some lunch. We grabbed a taxi (that completely overcharged us) and went to KOTO, a not-for-profit restaurant. KOTO's mission is to reach out to young people in poverty and teach them useful culinary skills. (KOTO stands for "Know One, Teach One.") I highly recommend visitors to Hanoi eat at KOTO. Not only is their mission very noble, the food was delicious.

It's probably out of focus because I was so excited to tuck into this yummy pumpkin and tofu dish.

xo, jill

At home with Ho Chi Minh.

2012-01-21T12:29:00.003+04:00

"Uncle Ho's Stilt House"

On our third day in Hanoi it seemed about time to do some proper sightseeing and get acquainted with Mr. Ho Chi Minh. Our first stop was at his mausoleum. Ho Chi Minh requested to be cremated with his ashes spread across Vietnam but the exact opposite happened. His body was embalmed and is on display inside the mausoleum. Really. Unfortunately, (or fortunately?), we visited on Monday when the mausoleum is closed to visitors.

Next we passed by the European architecture of the Presidential Palace on our way to Ho Chi Minh's stilt house.

The stilt house is said to be where Ho Chi Minh lived from 1958 until his death in 1969. The house is very simple with only two rooms and no toilet. The area underneath the house served as a conference room and reception hall. Realistically, Ho Chi Minh probably didn't live here during the war. When you consider how heavily the area was targeted by American bombs, it just wouldn't be smart.

Nonetheless, it's still a charming place.

xo, jill

A very "marry" Vietnamese Christmas

2012-01-20T13:42:00.002+04:00

with puppets.

On Christmas morning we took the opportunity to sleep in a bit. Someone (me) was feeling a bit grumpy and homesick so the day got off to a rough start. Anyone else get caught off guard by homesickness? You think you're doing fine and then suddenly realize where all the sourness is coming from? Fortunately, the rest of the day was much more pleasant.

We stopped into a nearby bakery for a few Christmas treats. I had the chocolate pie I had been craving the night before and Mike had his first of many gingerbread men. Then we were off to the water puppet show.

Water puppet shows are a very popular attraction in Hanoi. The practice originated in the 11th century in villages around northern Vietnam. The puppets are controlled by long sticks under water with the puppeteers hidden behind a screen. To the audience it appears as if the puppets are moving over the water independently.

The puppeteers came out for applause.

Tickets need to be purchased at least a day in advance and are available in first or second class seating arrangements. The show is relatively short, about an hour, and worth the $5 admission.

Big chunks of our day and evening were spent tracking down a suitable internet set up to web chat with our families. It took forever to find a computer with Skype, a camera, and a microphone. Plus, our families are in different time zones so we required multiple visits to the internet "cafe" (just three computers on a landing). Of course, all the fuss was definitely worth getting to see and talk to loved ones.

We also visited the night market where we entered a little booth to make this holiday greeting.

(Don't get too excited. "Marry" is just a misspelling. We've no big news to share.)

xo, jill

Hunting on Christmas Eve

2012-01-19T12:23:00.001+04:00

...for the perfect meal, of course!

Our goal on Christmas Eve was to find the perfect meal. We didn't want to eat Vietnamese food. We wanted to eat Christmas food. And there had better be some mashed potatoes!

We got a few leads from our hotel and blogs of places that serve Christmas dinners and went out to explore. Unfortunately, most places were serving a very expensive ($40+)* set menu featuring lots and lots of meat. Not so good for me.

The search was long but it really wasn't too bad. All around us the Christmas spirit in the city was beginning to grow. Finally, we found a place (about a block from our hotel, so basically right where we started!) that was just right. We sat outside (brr!) on a balcony overlooking the church. A huge crowd of people had gathered to listen to Christmas music and see the Nativity.

Can you see the people through those branches and power lines?

It was interesting to note how the Vietnamese people celebrated Christmas. For us, we'd be inside celebrating with our families on Christmas Eve. In contrast, the Vietnamese people took to the streets in large groups with their friends. They also have a habit of dressing up small children as Santa Claus. Loved it.

After dinner we shared an apple pie dessert and some pretty yucky hot chocolate. We took another walk around the neighborhood and then we settled in for a movie in our cozy room.

xo, jill

*Remember, you can eat in Vietnam for pennies.

Happy in Hanoi.

2012-01-18T16:53:00.003+04:00

Goodbye galoshes.

We arrived in Hanoi on Christmas Eve feeling grateful for the dry weather. The temperature was a bit chilly but the sun was out and shining. It turns out that we picked a pretty great hotel. The room was a good size but felt cozy, the bed was large and comfortable, and the DVD player and computer didn't hurt either. The only weird feature was the glass wall separating the bathroom from the rest of the room. Decorative etchings served to provide a little privacy, but it wasn't much. Did I mention the toilet and the computer were right next to each other? If one person was on the computer and the other person was on the toilet, you'd be facing each other with only a slight blur of glass for separation. Thank goodness no one got the traveler's d.

Moving on.

After a little rest we ventured out to Hoan Kiem Lake and visited Ngoc Son Temple. It's not obvious from these photos but the temple is on an island in the lake. Visitors reach the temple by crossing a bright red bridge.

First and last time I was asked for a photo by a stranger.

After the temple, Mike and the Lonely Planet led us on a walking tour throughout town. It was fairly fast-paced for the most part so I took most of my photos from the hip and on the move. A few still managed to turn out.

Hehe, butt shot.

Favorite.

Once we returned to the hotel we began to research and plan how to spend our Christmas Eve evening.

xo, jill

The last of Hué.

2012-01-17T09:07:00.002+04:00

Three in one.

The afternoon portion of our tour in Hué involved three different tombs. I think. Once again, I'm a little hazy on how it all went and which photos belong to which location. I promise the rest of Vietnam isn't so hazy!

So let's get this wet and rainy Hué tour wrapped up.

We booked a late night flight from Hué to Hanoi but when we arrived at the airport it was empty. The flight was canceled due to thick fog. Our taxi brought us back to our hotel and we were quickly assured we'd have a room for the night... down the street. The hotel was full so we were sent to an "equal" hotel that was ... um, not equal. Oh well, it was only one night. Our flight was rescheduled for early the next morning. Unfortunately, all the to and fro with the airport cost almost triple our hotel stay.

We were pretty happy to leave Hué for drier weather in the north.

xo, jill

The Hué tour continues.

2012-01-16T15:52:00.003+04:00

A bit of a blur.

To be honest, the tour we took in Hué has begun to completely blur together. After visiting the Imperial City, I know we went to a garden house and a pagoda. And I know this all happened before lunch. But that's about it.

I just realized I don't even have photos of the actual house!

And here's that pagoda.

xo, jill

Hey Hué

2012-01-15T20:31:00.002+04:00

"Hwey"

We left Hoi An and headed north to Hué*. The bus took about 5 hours and was quite comfortable. Inside there were two levels of seats that reclined into beds. Mike and I had never experienced that style of bus and enjoyed every minute of it.

Hué was definitely the wettest location on our trip. Our first afternoon we walked about town and the market until the rain drove us back inside.

Initially we came to Hué to visit the Vinh Moc Tunnels. Unfortunately, trips to the tunnels also included a slew of other military sites. We probably could have tired harder to arrange something, but the rain just made it all unappealing. Instead we joined a tour visiting all the major sites in the city.

The first stop was the Imperial City.

Photo by Mike

I was glad I wore my galoshes!

xo, jill

*I couldn't find the proper Vietnamese accent. This is as close as I could get.

Returning from My Son

2012-01-14T17:38:00.003+04:00

Little bits.

The return trip of our My Son tour included an obligatory stop at a woodworking shop. I always find those so awkward. I don't want to be rude but I'm genuinely never in the market for whatever the shops are selling.

Trapped in the woodworking showroom.

The tour also came with the option of taking a boat back into Hoi An. How could we pass up a ride through such beautiful waters? Uh... so there wasn't much to see and horizontal drizzle started up, but the lunch was surprisingly good.

It's like school lunch!

We spent our last afternoon in Hoi An making final adjustments at the tailors (more on that later) and meandering through the streets. We missed the peaceful pace of Hoi An's pedestrian streets as soon as we reached Hanoi.

Canadian flag

American flag

xo, jill

My Son

2012-01-13T20:41:00.001+04:00

"Mee-Sun"

Our last full day in Hoi An we ventured out to My Son. Our hotel offered guided trips which seemed like the easiest way to do it considering the potentially rainy weather.

My Son is the site of several Hindu temples constructed between the 4th and 14th centuries. Some of the temples are in ruins from the American war, but many are still intact. The temples were used by the Champa peoples for various religious ceremonies.

The light was bright but overcast that day and I never felt like I got the photography quite right. Here's a slew of photos none the less.

xo, jill

Hoi An: At night.

2012-01-12T10:00:00.001+04:00

Glowing.

After dinner we continued to wander around town. A tripod would have been nice to have, but not so nice to carry for the remainder of the trip.

Don't you love those lanterns? Mike and I discussed how a billion of them look cool, but just one or two is a little too dorm room. We didn't buy any.

Blurry Japanese covered bridge, the best I could get.

xo, jill

Hoi An: First impressions.

2012-01-11T20:39:00.003+04:00

Gray and yellow.

We entered Vietnam at Da Nang* and continued directly to Hoi An. It was only about 30km but still included two different touts hopping into our taxi for a ride...and to pass off their business cards.

When we reached our hotel I was delighted to find flower petals and swans on the bed. Then I immediately felt a little awkward because I desperately needed a nap but didn't know what to do with the petals!

After resting up we set out to explore the town. Recent rains caused a bit of flooding but nothing too troubling.

Despite being quite the tourist town today, Hoi An was once a major international sea port before being passed over for Da Nang in the 18th century. While trade in Da Nang began to prosper, Hoi An was largely forgotten. Changes began happening all over Vietnam, but not in Hoi An.

Hoi An is considered to be an extremely well-preserved example of an Asian sea port during the 15th to 19th centuries. The town is a UNESCO World Heritage site not only because of the high level of preservation, but also for the fusion of cultures displayed in the architecture.

The yellow buildings were certainly something to look at against the gray skies.

After our walk around town we stepped into a small restaurant for dinner just as the sky went dark.

xo, jill

*I was later told that entering via Da Nang is incredibly unusual. The proprietor at one of our hotels asked me repeatedly where we got our visa and then explained that he's never had a guest who entered the country the way we did. It felt pretty normal to us!

A rough start.

2012-01-10T14:44:00.007+04:00

I think I'm owed an upgrade.

I'm hoping those flights in and our of Bangladesh weren't the beginning of an awful flight pattern, but it's starting to look that way.

I'll only share a brief overview but getting to Vietnam went like this:

On our way to Colombo for a layover I sat in the most uncomfortable seat ever created. Something in the back rest was broken and sticking into the width of my back. Since it was the middle of the night, sleeping would have been nice. Unfortunately, the "massage" kept me up most of the time.

Mike had 3D glasses keeping him happy.

Our second flight to Kuala Lumpur was also uncomfortable, but in a different way. I won't say too much because I know it's a touchy situation... but, I was sat on. The whole 4 hour flight. The man next to me would have benefited from purchasing two seats but instead used about 1/3 of my seat in addition to his own. I scooted over to Mike as much as possible and remained polite but it was awkward. I couldn't fully lower my tray table to eat because his leg blocked it. Has anyone else been in this situation? What do you do? (Oh yeah, and the person in front of us was puking. Repeatedly. Actually, nearly all our flights involved pukers nearby.)

I already looked like this...and then was sat on.

We had an overnight stay in Malaysia and then an early flight to Vietnam the next day. This was perhaps the most stressful part of our journey. Despite having a receipt from the airline showing we paid, the company claimed we each still owed the full balance. In cash. It was a lot of waiting in long needless lines, running around the airport, and sweating. Luckily, Mike made a quick dash to the ATM and all was well.

So I won't be flying with those two airlines again, but we made it to Vietnam!

xo, jill

Kiva: Year in Review

2012-01-09T18:54:00.005+04:00

"Loans that change lives."

Over the course of 2011 my goal was to fund one Kiva loan per month. I'm happy to say that I stuck with it and funded a total of 12 loans over the year. While some goals (or resolutions) are easy to forget, lending via Kiva had me feeling excited each and every month.

Here's what my loans look like on the map:

And here's their progress:

Not too bad!

For the coming year I've decided to do things a bit differently. The new plan is only lend money that I've already invested. So instead of paying more money into Kiva, I'll use the repayments to fund more loans. I hope to have enough repaid to fund a loan every two months.

Do you have any Kiva plans for 2012?

xo, jill

Return.

2012-01-06T10:26:00.004+04:00

Too many time zones.

I'm back from Vietnam and Malaysia. Now I have all this to tackle and a whole lot more on the horizon.

xo, jill

Travel Essential #5: Packing Cubes

2012-01-03T00:00:00.002+04:00

Keepin' it compact.

If you're like me, packing is your least favorite part of travel. (Ok, unpacking is actually just a bit worse but you can put that off for longer). Luckily, a few years ago a friend gave me a gift that makes packing so much easier: packing cubes!

Have you ever used these? The cubes help to keep my clothing organized in my backpack as well as keeping everything compact. I use one small cube for socks and undergarments and one large cube for everything else. If it doesn't fit in the cube, it's not coming (with the exception of a jacket). This way I won't over pack for a trip (at least not with clothing).

The cubes also help me stay organized once I've reached my destination. I don't have to dig through my items. I just take out the cube I need at the time and slip it in my bag when I'm finished.

If you've never used packing cubes, I highly suggest you check them out!

Now tell me some of your travel essentials!

xo, jill

Happy New Year

2012-01-01T00:00:00.001+04:00

2012.

How did you celebrate?

xo, jill

Travel Essential #4: Swimsuit

2011-12-30T00:00:00.001+04:00

For splashing.

On nearly every trip*, I've brought a swimsuit. You just never know when you might have the opportunity for a little swimming or sunbathing. I was happy to have my swimsuit with me for the Dead Sea in Jordan, a dhow cruise in Oman, and a celebratory rain dance in Sri Lanka. I have even been on hikes that require you to remove your pants to ford a river. Wouldn't you rather be in your swimsuit than your undies?

Clockwise: Jordan, Oman, Sri Lanka

A few years ago I made the switch back to wearing one piece suits. I didn't realize it at the time but it turned out to be a good travel decision for many reasons.**

1. In many places, regardless of what you're wearing you will be stared at. It's just the norm. I'd rather be stared at in a one piece than a bikini.

2. While topless beaches might be popular in Europe, other places in the world are a bit more modest. Try standing in line behind a woman in a burkini. No matter what you have on, you'll feel under dressed but at least your tummy is covered!

3. Or perhaps you're in a place with predominantly male swimmers (like everywhere in the Middle East). The more coverage, the better... trust me.

Do you always make sure to pack a swimsuit too?

xo, jill

*Exceptions would be desert camping in the largest uninhabited desert in the world.

**Of course, plenty of women still swim in bikinis. At least one advantage I can see is that it takes up less space in your suitcase!

Travel Essential #3: Shayla

2011-12-27T00:00:00.003+04:00

Wrap it up.

Bringing a shayla, or large shawl, on a trip is an absolute must for me. One large rectangle of fabric can do so much!

How many ways can you use a shayla?

1. To cover pillows at questionable hotels/hostels. Sometimes I just can't bring myself to put my face on strange pillowcases. Laying my shayla down first helps me sleep at night.

2. Some places of worship require women to cover their hair before entering. It's that much easier if you've already got your own shayla ready to go.

3. Sometimes you might want to cover your hair for other reasons. Perhaps you're caught in a sandstorm, or your lighter colored hair is drawing too much attention from the gentlemen.

4. If you're cold, wear a shayla like a traditional scarf around your neck.

5. Perhaps your blouse is a bit too low or your sleeves a bit too short. Sometimes I wear a shayla to cover my chest or shoulders, or both.

6. That moment when you just want to frolic with a little wind.

Anyone else pack a shayla in their bag?

xo, jill

Just hear those sleigh bells...

2011-12-25T00:00:00.002+04:00

jingling, ring ting a-tingling too!

Molly and I have prepared for you our third annual Christmas video. We have so much fun making these silly little digital cards.

This year we went straight to the heart of Christmas in Abu Dhabi: the Abu Dhabi Mall!

Enjoy!

Merry Christmas!

You can watch last year's video right here, and the year before that here.

xo, jill

Christmas is coming.

2011-12-24T00:00:00.002+04:00

Can you feel it?

Merry Christmas Eve!

xo, jill

Merry and Bright

2011-12-23T00:00:00.003+04:00

A very Molly Christmas.

Molly was sweet enough to host the Hump Day Christmas Party this year! We ate delicious food, played silly games, and sang our favorite carols.

I liked how Molly expertly assigned each attendee a task for the party. This made it feel like everyone contributed to the jolly good time. Maybe I'll challenge myself to use this method for the next party I host... instead of, you know, trying to control all the details.

My job was to make props for the Christmas photo booth. Here are a few favorite shots.

More to come tomorrow!

xo, jill

Travel Essential #2: Headlamp

2011-12-22T00:00:00.002+04:00

Lighting the way.

Whether my trip is big or small, I always make sure to pack my headlamp. A decent headlamp is a travel essential for me for many reasons.

Caving in Nepal

1. When you're traveling you find yourself needing to get up at odd and early hours. Unless you want to aggravate the entire dorm room, a headlamp is your best friend to help you find your baggage and get out the door quickly.

2. Some places I've stayed, like a remote island getaway in Thailand, only have electricity during a few hours of the evening. If you need light at any other time, a headlamp has you covered.

3. It's not always easy to fall asleep in new and strange places. Using a headlamp to read while your travel partner sleeps can be the perfect solution.

4. Ever need to use the bathroom in the middle of the night?

5. Sometimes when exploring you'll find yourself in dark places, like a few of the castle ruins in Jordan or the caves in Nepal.

I'm sure there are many more reasons to keep a headlamp close by. I received mine as a Christmas gift several years ago. I must say, it's been invaluable.

Do you bring a headlamp on your travels?

xo, jill

Travel Essential #1: Camera(s)

2011-12-21T15:11:00.003+04:00

Click click click!

There's no way I'm going on a trip without my camera! Traveling is probably the number one thing that has improved my photography skills. It's easier to improve when you're motivated to capture all the beautiful things you may never get a chance to see again.

I usually bring two cameras on trips but occasionally three, if I'm feeling strong enough.

1. The main camera I use is a Nikon D40. It's a very basic dSLR but it gets the job done. I've been using it for nearly there years now and still don't feel like I've got it mastered. It's a bit heavy to lug around but usually worth it in the end. For lenses I usually bring a 35mm and an 18-55mm or 55-200mm.

Taken with my D40 in Sweden.

2. I always bring a little point and shoot back up camera with me on travels. I have a Canon Powershot SD1400 IS ELPH. If I'm doing something more active or just don't want to carry the giant D40, the tiny point and shoot comes in handy. It also has video which is sometimes fun.

Taken with my point and shoot on a hike in Slovenia.

3. If I have extra room or know I won't have to carry my luggage for long periods of time, I like to bring along my Fuji Instax 210. It's fun to have an instant photo and local people often get a kick out of it too. The downside is that this camera is kind of big. Ok, it's pretty huge. You can get a smaller version but the photos are just too tiny for my taste.

Taken with my Fuji Instax 210 in Sri Lanka.

What type of camera do you bring traveling?

xo, jill

Kiva Loan: December

2011-12-19T21:38:00.003+04:00

12 down, 0 to go!

It's my 12th Kiva loan and the last loan of the year. I've really looked forward to selecting and funding my monthly loans over the past twelve months. A year in and it's still a little thrill. I think that's a good sign.

Photo from Ha's Kiva listing.

Loaning to a borrower in Vietnam seemed like the perfect choice since by the time you'll be reading this I'll actually be there! December's loan goes to Ha Nguyen Thi Thu who runs a general store with her husband. Ha plans to use the loan to buy more goods in bulk in order to improve her business and her family's living conditions.

Is anyone giving a Kiva gift card for Christmas?

xo, jill

Away we go.

2011-12-17T15:25:00.004+04:00

And away we go.

Mike and I are off to explore Vietnam and Malaysia for the next few weeks!

Don't go away though because I've scheduled a few posts to avoid the blog going quiet. A few weeks ago I was browsing travel blogs and noticing people's travel essentials. I thought that while I'm gone I could share the five things I always take traveling. And... it's almost Christmas so you can expect a few holiday posts... including the annual Christmas video!

See you in the new year!

xo, jill

Qasr al Sarab

2011-12-16T00:00:00.000+04:00

"mystic desert charm"

Way back in October I was working on my Halloween costume and getting ready to attend a party when Molly called. Her mom was in town visiting and they had booked a room at a luxury hotel out in the desert. When they arrived they were informed that the Deluxe Room they booked was unavailable. The hotel would have to upgrade them to a 3 Bedroom Villa and would that be alright? Now Molly was on the phone asking if Mike and I would like to sleep in the third bedroom. Oh, and there was also a private pool.

Coincidentally, I was coming off of a bad week. I needed to get away, even for a night. Mike and I hopped in the car and two hours later arrived at Qasr al Sarab. After being received with tea and dates in the grand room, we were driven to the villa via golf cart. Molly and her mother were waiting to greet us.

So let's talk about this villa. Three bedrooms (two kings and two singles), four bathrooms (complete with showers, spas, armoires, and vanities) kitchenette, living room, dining room, small study, outdoor dining space, outdoor loungers, pool, and perhaps the most exciting thing: grass!

Bedroom with king bed

Living room

Pool and dunes

Pool and outdoor dining area

By the time we arrived Molly and her mom were ready for bed. Mike and I took a quick swim before heading to bed ourselves.

The next morning we played in the dunes, swam, relaxed by the pool, and celebrated Molly's mother's belated birthday. Eventually the golf carts arrived to bring us back to the main building. Molly told her driver how much we enjoyed the upgrade. Molly's driver told her just how much of an upgrade it was. The room cost 13,000AED per night (3,500 USD).

Photo by Molly

Patio off our room

Lounging area / Photo by Molly

Photo by Molly

I can't say I'd ever pay that amount myself for a hotel room, but it was fun to pretend for a night.

Thanks Molly!

xo, jill

Sandbox

2011-12-14T00:00:00.000+04:00

Heavy on the sand.

A camping trip was on the calendar for this past weekend. Unfortunately, illness and report card season knocked a few friends out of the festivities. Sarah, Skylar, Mike and I decided to still head out to the dunes and I'm glad we did. What's not to enjoy about playing and sleeping in a gigantic sandbox?

I didn't realize the ISO was up for these shots. I like the effect on the color though.

Photo by Sarah

Photo by Skylar

Unfortunately, other people like to play in the sandbox too.

Photo by Mike

Yep, that's our tent getting showered with sand thanks to the hooligan on the quad.

Photo by Sarah

The next morning a few camels ambled down the road nearby.

Photo by Sarah

xo, jill

A Special Note.

2011-12-13T00:00:00.001+04:00

Too special.

Several weeks ago my students made little notes for special people in their lives. I was even lucky enough for a few students to give their notes to me. Now when your students are not native English speakers, you get really good at being a creative reader. But sometimes you just can't make it work.

Like this:

Student: "For you."
Me: "Wow! Really? For me...'Dear Jill, I love you because your...um, your...' What does it say?"
S: "I love you because you're teacher good."
M: "Of course."

Now I would have read that a little more like, "Dear Jill, I love you because your tits are cold." but maybe that's just me.

xo, jill

PS. Do you remember this little love letter?

It's a bird! It's a plane!

2011-12-11T16:08:00.004+04:00

It's Jetman!

Several weeks ago a few friends informed Mike and I that Jetman was in town. We didn't really know what that meant, but decided to head down to the Corniche anyways.

Turns out Jetman, Yves Rossy, is the only person in the "history of aviation to fly with a jet-propelled wing." Kind of awesome. From down below he only looked like a speck, but his website showcases some pretty amazing photos.

A unique career choice, to be sure.

xo, jill

Instant Timmy's

2011-12-09T13:24:00.004+04:00

Canadian vacation.

After quite the wait, the Abu Dhabi Tim Hortons finally opened. Last weekend Mike and I went to check it out and get some breakfast. It was no where near as busy as when we went to the Dubai location, but the employees certainly had their hands full.

I enjoyed my bagel and cream cheese (even though it wasn't actually what I ordered), and Mike liked his sandwich and doughnut combo. That's just weird to me. Adding a soup to a sandwich and calling it a combo makes sense. But a doughnut? They just don't go together! Am I right?

Nearby Lulu's had their annual fruit and veg UAE tribute. Love it.

xo, jill

How to Celebrate National Day: City Lights

2011-12-08T11:29:00.001+04:00

Sparkly.

I promise this is my last post about National Day. I told you it was kind of a big deal!

During this time of the year the city and business owners put up fantastic light displays.

And if you squint, you can kind of pretend it's all for Christmas.

xo, jill

How to Celebrate National Day: Video

2011-12-06T07:13:00.004+04:00

Live action.

I put together a few of Mike's video clips from National Day. If you enjoyed the pictures from my last post, the video gives an even better idea of what it's like out on the Corniche.

xo, jill

How to Celebrate National Day: In the Streets

2011-12-05T15:55:00.004+04:00

Take cover.

For those of us not attending posh or official National Day parties, the place to celebrate is in the streets.

Here's how it works.

#1: If you have a car, deck it out. If not, skip to #2.

National Day 2009

National Day 2009

#2: Head on down to the Corniche. The Corniche is where the street party culminates and refers to both the actual road and the waterfront.

Photo by Molly

#3: Avoid gangs of men equipped with silly string and snow spray.

All kinds of trouble / Photo by Molly

#4: Spray and be sprayed!

Photo by Mike

Photo by Mike

Photo by Molly

Photo by Molly

Photo by Molly

While I'd like to say it's all fun and games, this year the silly stringing felt a bit obnoxious. It's fun to engage in combat with strangers, but when you're surrounded by a circle of men who are all aiming for your face and you can't see or find your friends... it's a little unsettling.

The bottom line is if you decide to celebrate on the Corniche, be prepared to be a target.

Mike and I also walked along the Corniche the night before and I'm glad we did. We were able to enjoy the displays, watch the fireworks, and dance in the snow [spray] in a much calmer but still festive atmosphere. If you're not up for a good silly string/snow spray dousing, I'd recommend visiting the Corniche the night before to avoid the chaos.

xo, jill

Special thanks to Molly and Mike for bravely capturing these photos.

How to Celebrate National Day: At School

2011-12-04T20:51:00.007+04:00

Take notes.

National Day in the UAE is kind of a big deal. Having now experienced my third National Day here, the process for celebrating is finally starting to make sense to me. (At least the way my school does it.)

Here's what you do:

#1: Begin preparations at least 2 weeks in advance. Make sure you pull students out of class for song and dance rehearsals. Send home lots of memos and interrupt Ms. Jill's teaching as much as possible. (That last bit is really important.) As the big day draws near, split your (academic) time between patriotic crafts (fun!) and performance rehearsals (not fun!).

#2: Begin to cover the school with as much patriotism as possible. The bigger the flag, the better. You might even want to recreate a Bedouin camp in the courtyard, live animals included.

#3: Have a parade complete with military and ambulance escorts. Don't forget Sheik Nemo!

#4: Stage a National Day performance. This is what you've been building towards for the past 2 weeks. Invite mothers, nannies, and siblings to join. Enjoy the chaos.

#5: Leave the place in shambles. The maids will clean up.

xo, jill

[Ok, so that's a bit tongue in cheek. But really... it's fun, bizarre, and frustrating, yet still a very special experience.]

Over the hill.

2011-12-02T14:02:00.002+04:00

Photos by Molly

The United Arab Emirates turned 40 today!

xo, jill

Novelty Snacks of Bangladesh

2011-11-29T15:21:00.005+04:00

If you can find them.

Bangladesh wasn't the easiest place to novelty snack, but we were still able to find a few treats.

Novelty Snack: Dried Peas

Description: Peas fried with spices and salt
Tastes Like: The texture of these peas reminded me of the last few popcorn kernels in the bowl that only half popped. Molly says the flavor is the equivalent of veggie "fried chicken."

Verdict: Thumbs up!

Novelty Snack: Sun Chips, wasabi flavor

Description: "Every bite is a pleasure."
Tastes Like: Wasabi flavored Ruffles

Verdict: Thumbs neutral

Novelty Snack: Pillow Chocolate Chips

Description: "Pillows with rich chocolate filling."
Tastes Like: Stale Cocoa Puffs with a smidge of Nutella knock-off filling.

Verdict: Thumbs neutral

xo, jill

Running free.

2011-11-28T21:11:00.004+04:00

Baby buns!

The kids in Bangladesh were just adorable. They were always running about playing with huge smiles on their faces. Their smiles may have had something to do with being allowed to run around pant-less.

Molly captured a few of these adorable kiddos with her camera.

Now doesn't that just look "delightful?"*

It was so fun to see them running wild, playing imaginative games, and having fun.

xo, jill

*Let's keep that an inside joke, family.

Sour: Part 2

2011-11-27T08:17:00.004+04:00

Ridiculous demands and Pizza Hut.

We woke up the morning after wandering the night time streets feeling really ready to go. Our flight didn't leave until later in the day so we had several hours to fill. We knew that asking a taxi to take us to one of the few remaining tourist attractions was out of the question. Instead, we decided to stay in our hotel watching Animal Planet for as long as possible.

Near midday we finally headed out in search of a restuarant where we could finish off those last few hours before heading to the airport. A taxi agreed to take us to where we were going for 50 takas. Very reasonable. Of course, we didn't end up at our agreed upon destination. After a few extra trips around the block we decided that perhaps the restaurant didn't actually exist. We decided to just let the driver drop us at Pizza Hut like he had already tried to do a few minutes before. This is when things got interesting.

I paid the driver but he would not accept the money. He kept smiling and saying, "50,000." Remember how we agreed to pay him 50? Of course, we were not going to pay the taxi driver 50,000 taka when our hotel room cost 1,000 taka. What was he thinking? It didn't take too long for a crowd to gather. After a lot of talking and shouting (not us) the price was lowered to 500 taka. Molly and I were not having it. Finally, someone came along who spoke English and both parties could explain the story. The referee agreed with us that 50 taka was a fair price for the ride. The driver was upset that he had to take so many trips around the block and therefore would only accept 150 taka for his troubles. At this point, Molly settled it. She half tucked, half tossed money at the driver so it would land on that little ledge your pants create with your shirt, declared "70 taka, finished!" and stormed off into the Pizza Hut. I was about .5 seconds behind her.

[Here are the amounts in US dollars: We agreed to pay $.65. The driver demanded $652. The dispute was settled with $.91.]

Over pizza Molly and I talked out what had happened. Settling money issues is by far my least favorite aspect of travel. It's so frustrating when you think you've settled on a fair price but are surprised when you reach your destination. Usually, I don't mind paying a little extra for drivers who work really hard getting you where you're going... but I don't like drivers who claim they know the way and then demand more money when they get lost. By the end of our pizza we were ready to giggle about it a bit. "50,000!" became our new favorite joke of the trip.

At this point we just decided to head to the airport early. Between the night before and our taxi kerfuffle, we were ready to go.

And then there was the plane ride.

xo, jill

Sour: Part 1

2011-11-26T18:44:00.007+04:00

Dark streets and a few random photos.

Unfortunately, our trip to Bangladesh ended on a bit of a sour note. Our only option to get back to Chittagong in time for our flight was a night bus. Our guidebook suggested avoiding night travel if possible, but we really didn't have a choice. Our driver was fearless as he talked on the phone while navigating through dense fog, potholes, speed bumps, stray animals, and other fearless drivers. It was a bumpy ride. Four hours later we arrived at the deserted bus depot at one in the morning. The baby taxis that started to swarm around us were driven by men with "crazy eyes." I kid you not. We elected to ride with the least crazy looking driver and headed over to our original hotel. I suppose if we had planned ahead we wouldn't have been met with a closed gate and a sleeping security guard. Despite knowing there was no way possible the hotel was full, we were turned away. "No rooms." BS.

Hmm... I don't know if I need to explain, but the streets of Chittagong don't exactly exude a friendly feel. One of the many men sitting on stools in the middle of the night offered to walk us over to a nearby hotel. We were a bit skeptical but grateful for his help. This hotel was also locked up but he rang for an employee and explained that we were two "foreigners" needing a room. The hotel immediately wanted to know where our husbands were so I quickly explained that our husbands were working in Dhaka (the capital). Molly added that they had to work but we had a holiday. We are wonderful actresses when given a chance. Unfortunately, two foreign women wanting a hotel room in the middle of the night was just too perplexing. We were turned away again.

At this point it was about 1:30am and neither of us were thrilled. We found another hotel in the guidebook that was just a few blocks away. Our kind friend offered to walk us there too. Well, by this time we had made a few "friends." And by friends I mean, men who were following us down the street in the middle of the night in Chittagong. Not such a comfy feeling. Good thing I had Molly who will masterfully go Momma Bear when need be. I believe her exact words were, "Please stop! You are too close!" and you know there was a hand motion. She was successful in at least getting this particular follower to walk beside us inside of directly behind. It's infinitely more comfortable to be followed from the side than the back. (You know, if you have to be followed.)

Bicycle rickshaw ride.

Finally, we arrived at the third hotel of the night. The staff wasn't exactly friendly but we were allowed to check in (even though the rate was higher than typical). At last we made it to a hotel room only now we had a new problem. The bellboy would not leave. I suppose our hints (like saying "Ok, thank you." and tipping) just weren't direct enough. After a few awkward facial expressions to each other, we managed to get him out. We settled into our rock hard beds very eager for sleep.

xo, jill

Feeling thankful

2011-11-24T14:37:00.004+04:00

for so much.

Last night some friends and I gathered for a little Thanksgiving pre-celebration*. As usual, the food was bountiful and delicious.

Sarah prepared a little Thanksgiving craft for us as well. Gotta love the turkey variety.

When you can't celebrate with family, having such a lovely group of friends really does help the holiday feel special. I mean, for most people in Abu Dhabi, today is just a regular Thursday!

Happy Thanksgiving to all my American family and friends!

xo, jill

*my spell check really wanted to change "pre-celebration" to "pee-celebration." Hehe, I could only imagine.

Markets, monasteries, and mermaids.

2011-11-21T13:03:00.003+04:00

Dead cows and Sebastian too!

Our last day in Cox's Bazaar we were determined to make it to Mermaid Eco-Resort. Our bus back to Chittagong didn't depart until 9pm, so we had a lot of time to kill. We figured we should check out a few places around town, and then try to spend as much time as possible at the resort.

First we visited the Burmese Market via bicycle rickshaw. Unfortunately, most of the stalls were closed. The ones that were open sold the same bangles and scarfs you can buy in several countries... so it was a pretty quick stop. Then we stopped into a Buddhist monastery which I think was Aggmeda Khyang. That consisted of a large teak building we were not allowed to take pictures of, getting major side-eye from a monk, and being asked for a donation. You could probably skip it.

The market and the monastery were a bit lackluster, but don't worry because the drive itself was quite memorable. Our last day in Cox's Bazaar coincided with the actual Eid holiday, the day the animals are slaughtered. We saw plenty of dead cows. Some were slaughtered in a field, others in the road. Some were already chopped to bits by the time we passed, others were just getting started. The cow is divided into thirds to share with immediate family, friends and relatives, and the poor. All day long people were walking along the road holding clear plastic bags containing cow parts. Some were making deliveries, others were bringing their meaty gift home. It was an interesting religious ritual to observe, but I think I've seen enough.

Finally, we made it to the Mermaid Eco-Resort after a quick stop at a "waterfall". Turns out the reason it was so hard to find is that it's about 20 kilometers down the beach. We were only off by about 15km.

We immediately booked a boat ride for later in the afternoon and relaxed in their cafe. We didn't realize that the boat ride was actually just transport to a private beach where you are left for several hours. We weren't really interested in that (you'd have to see the beaches) so instead we just took a quick ride out and back.

Our boat did not look this cool. More like the one in the middle. / Photo by Molly.

Photo by Molly.

The island was covered with these little red crabs exactly like The Little Mermaid. Do you know how badly I wanted to sing "Under the Sea?" They were pretty cute and super fast!

Photo by Molly

We spent the rest of the afternoon at the resort relaxing and snacking.

xo, jill

Kiva Loan: November

2011-11-20T16:19:00.002+04:00

11 down, 1 to go!

Even though this is my 11th loan, I still have so much fun logging into Kiva each month. This time around I had about $11 in my account. It's always so exciting to see what has accumulated over a month or so.

Photo from Faridah's Kiva listing.

November's loan goes to Faridah in Uganda. Faridah has a business selling paper supplies and she'd like to increase her inventory as well as pay for her children's school fees. Mike and I were planning on spending our upcoming 3 week holiday in Uganda, but it didn't work out. While I'd still love to visit Uganda myself, sending over a loan will have to do for now.

xo, jill

A lazy afternoon.

2011-11-18T13:50:00.002+04:00

And not the last.

After spending a little time on the beach in Cox's Bazaar, we set out to explore a bit more. As we were walking behind some buildings we stumbled upon these random animal statues. We were invited in for a mini-tour by the security guard. His explanation didn't quite make sense but it seems these animals belong to a hotel that has not quite finished construction.

We also stopped for a picture of me and my namesake!

We wanted to visit the Mermaid Cafe Eco Resort. Originally we had hoped to stay at the eco-resort, but their prices rose dramatically just prior to our arrival (like $37 up to $100+). We were hoping to at least be able to hang out there for a bit. We took a bicycle rickshaw in the direction of the resort which we thought was only a few kilometers outside of town. But no... after at least a half hour in the (very bumpy) rickshaw the driver dropped us at a sign that said, "Mermaid Cafe" but there was no resort. The resort was still quite a bit further down the road.

We decided to just stay put and try again the next day.

xo, jill

Cox's Bazaar

2011-11-16T15:36:00.006+04:00

The beach Bangladeshi style.

Our first order of business the next morning was to check out the beach. Cox's Bazaar is one of the premier tourist destinations in the country, although if you've been to beaches elsewhere, it's not too impressive. We read before arriving that sunbathing or swimming would not be an option. Ladies and gentlemen in this part of the world don't go splashing around in tiny little swimsuits. However, you can rent loungers and umbrellas if you'd like to enjoy the sun and surf fully clothed. We decided to just relax with our books.

One draw back of being stationary on the beach is that you are a target for pedlars. Fortunately, the man we rented our chairs from did a pretty good job of helping us shoo unwanted vendors away.

"Swimming" in the Bay of Bengal / photo by Molly

photo by Molly

xo, jill

The first half.

2011-11-15T15:12:00.005+04:00

A slow start.

At the airport in Chittagong, Molly and I were given star treatment. As females/tourists/Westerners, we were whisked to the front of the immigration line and processed immediately. This meant we were also the first people to exit the airport. We walked through the double doors into the bright sunlight and were confronted with a giant crowd staring... at us. Um, I don't know how to describe it... Overwhelming? Awkward? It didn't take long for a security guard to offer to help us find transport and only a tiny bit longer for our very own entourage to form. Our guidebook suggested 150 taka would be an appropriate price for a ride into town. Every driver was asking for 400 taka. We tried to negotiate a bit but finally it came down to this: "I feel like we're in a zoo. Let's just pay it." as we climbed into the cage that is a baby-taxi.

Outside the airport are fields, gardens, and greenery. It's not often that the area surrounding the airport is nicer than the city itself, but for Chittagong I'd say that's true.

We checked into our hotel and inquired about visiting a village in the Chittagong Hill Tracts the next day. We knew we needed a permit (and an armed guard!) but we didn't quite know how to get it. Unfortunately, we were informed that the permit office was closed for 3 or 4 days due to Eid. Boo. That was one whole day in our itinerary deleted. We decided to take a nap and worry about it when we woke up.

After several hours of sleeping we were ready to figure out what we were actually going to do in Bangladesh now that our most anticipated plans were foiled. We knew we wanted to go to to the beach, so we set out to get a bus ticket. Not so easy. Again because it was Eid, all the luxury buses were sold out and no one was too keen to sell us a local bus ticket. Finally, a friendly man helped us. We had our tickets and were ready to explore the city.

Um... there's not too much to see in Chittagong. We ended up at the Zia Memorial Museum which had raised its price from 2 taka to 75 taka. That's quite the price hike! (Still only a bit more than $1 though.) (Note: You are not allowed to bring in backpacks or cameras. We learned the hard way and Molly had to leave her dSLR with a guard.) The museum is a memorial to President Zia who was assassinated there in 1981. The display is mainly photographs and his personal belongings, like a shirt from Harrods.

The next morning we had some time before our bus to the beach so we decided to explore some more. The guidebook suggested visiting Foy's Lake for a morning stroll. Boy were we confused when we were dropped off at an amusement park by the same name. It was never clear to us if there was access to an actual lake or not. After several inquiries on Molly's part we just decided to drop it. Instead we headed to one of the other few sights in town, the World War II Cemetery. After stopping about a bajillion times for directions (which included being led inside a hospital and consulting with a doctor who had a patient), we finally made it there. It was a nice little spot but not really much to speak of. We were mostly excited to finally be able to take a few photos.

I have to include this headstone because the groundskeeper cleaned off the bird poop with his bare hand, just for me.

After the cemetery we hopped on the bus to go to the beach. The estimated 4 hour journey took 6 and a half. The animal markets were busy selling cows for the upcoming Eid holiday and the crowds were spilling over into the streets, making it difficult for vehicles to pass.

All of these photos were taken from the bus window before it grew dark.

On their way home with cows in tow.

Cows in the back of the truck.

Only a few days left for these little cows.

[Are you wondering what I'm talking about when I keep saying Eid? In short, Eid al Adha is a time for Muslims to get dressed up in their finest clothing and celebrate Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his son to God. Families who can afford it slaughter an animal (cows, sheep, goats, etc) to share with family, friends, and the needy.]

xo, jill

The journey...

2011-11-13T16:36:00.004+04:00

really was a battle.

I wouldn't normally share too much about flights, but this trip is the exception. As Molly and I were waiting to board the plane, we suddenly noticed something. Not only were we the only tourists on our flight, we were the only Westerners, and two of three females. Everyone else was clearly returning home or visiting family for the Eid holiday. At this point I started to wonder if maybe Bangladesh isn't sought out for tourism?

Boarding the plane itself was quite the experience. We flew a budget airline that allows one free carry on and charges a fee for checked bags. Here's where we encountered a bit of a problem. When you consider that everyone is hoping to avoid the checked bag fee, and that everyone on the plane (besides us) is laden down with gifts for their families, you might reach the conclusion that hell would break lose. It pretty much did.

Our plane was delayed for an hour and a half due to hand luggage. Passengers were attempting to shove very large bags in the already full overhead bins, as well as beneath their seats. Other bags were just left in the aisle. The poor flight attendant. She was trying her best to communicate that all the luggage needed to be stowed or put below in cargo... but the message just wasn't getting across. This led to other passengers (the ones who knew English) shouting at her to "put some authority into her voice!" or simply firing profanities into the air.

Ignore our sleepy faces and check out the scores of men.

Passengers were even on their mobile phones as the plane was about to take off. The flight attendant finally snapped, "Sir, do you want to go home??? Then turn off your mobile!" It was pretty intense, folks.

I was shocked. I've never been on such a poorly managed flight before. I thought there might be a mutiny! Molly was asleep (it was past midnight).

I slept through much of the actual flight but as soon as we landed the chaos started up again. Molly and I sat next to man who had the window seat. As soon the plane stopped he literally jumped over us (like his butt in our face style) to get to the aisle. We just sat back knowing there was no way we were going anywhere.

Probably .2 seconds after the plane landed.

Our return flight was much better and since no one was carrying gifts all the hand luggage seemed to fit. The only problem this time was that we were seated near the toilet on a flight full of tiny bladders. I think every man on that plane urinated at least 3 times (1 of which he hit the target). I could go into more detail, but I won't. Let's just say Molly was gagging.

I suppose the important part is that we made it there and back safely, but my goodness. What a journey.

xo, jill

Instant Bangladesh

2011-11-11T18:59:00.004+04:00

A preview.

Here's a sneak peek at our trip to Bangladesh courtesy of Molly's mini Fuji Instax camera.

Thanks for the photos, Molly!

xo, jill

Where in the World? (Location Reveal)

2011-11-09T16:30:00.006+04:00

Game over.

Thanks for playing my little game. There were many great guesses including:

Algeria
Ireland
Israel
Madagascar
Malaysia
Saudi Arabia
Singapore
Spain
Turkey
Yemen

...but no one got it right.

Play the video to reveal our secret destination!

Since no one guessed correctly, I wrote all the entries down, put them in a hat, and chose a winner. (If you made multiple guesses you got multiple entries.)

Jenny, you'll be the lucky recipient of this beautiful tote bag.

Ok, so Bangladesh wasn't exactly a hotbed of souvenir options (more on that later). This tote was the best I could do, but I'll be sure to add a few UAE goodies in the parcel too.

Thanks for guessing! Molly and I had fun reading the comments the one time we found internet on our trip before the giant rat scared us off the computer... oh dear.

xo, jill

Where in the World? (Blog Contest!)

2011-11-03T15:19:00.004+04:00

Let's play a game.

In a few hours Molly and I are heading off on an adventure. Where are we going?! Take a guess!

from 2009

Leave a comment with the country you think it might be.

The winner will receive a souvenir from our secret destination!

Here's a hint: It's nowhere we've been before. Check out the places I've seen to rule out contenders.

Contest ends midnight November 9th, Abu Dhabi time.

Enter as many times as you like. Open to all!

xo, jill

Vote Bu Tinah

2011-10-31T15:21:00.006+04:00

Or else.

Yesterday Grades 2 and 3 went on a field trip and lo and behold, this one was actually educational! For the past few weeks a giant dome in honor of Bu Tinah Island has been open to visitors at the Corniche Beach. Bu Tinah Island is northwest of Abu Dhabi in the Arabian Gulf. It was also the only finalist in the region for the New 7 Wonders of Nature and is therefore quite the source of pride. In addition, it's pretty neat. The worlds healthiest population of dugongs (like manatees) live there!

While the dome is essentially a giant advertisement to vote Bu Tinah, it's also pretty cool.

Inside is a faux boardwalk above a tank with young mangroves and sea turtles. There's also a large replica of the island that shows where each species of animal likes to congregate.

My only complaint regarding the visit was that it was brief. Our time spent on the bus more than doubled our time spent inside the exhibit. Oh well, any excuse to leave school is a good excuse.

If you'd like to vote for Bu Tinah, there's only 10 days left!

Watch a neat video here.

xo, jill

Kiva Loan: October

2011-10-27T13:24:00.002+04:00

10 down, 2 to go!

When I checked the balance in my Kiva account this month, I was pleasantly surprised. Nearly $21 dollars had been repaid since last month. That's almost enough to fund a new loan!

This month I selected an entrepreneur in Kenya. I figured that with all the new trouble happening there, Kenya would be a good place to support. Annah is a tailor and plans to use the money from her loan to purchase more fabric for the upcoming holiday season. I also liked how Annah described herself as quiet, peaceful, and wise.

Photo from Annah's Kiva listing.

Did you know that you can also give Kiva gift cards? I sent one to my dad for his birthday last week! I figure that most of the people I know don't need new "things" but might appreciate contributing to the success of others.

xo, jill

Abu Dhabi Film Festival 3

2011-10-24T00:00:00.001+04:00

Shorts, whales, and krishna.

The last batch of films I saw was a bit of an exhausting experience. I rushed to the theater after school to meet Mike for a quick lunch/dinner before our first film. Then it was on to the next. I left home in the morning at 6am and didn't make it back until well after 9pm. Long day. I needed to rest up for our last film the following day... a 3+ hour endeavor.

5. Shorts Program 1
Directed by many many people
Premise: This showing was a selection of a variety of short films from around the world. To be honest, about half of them weren't that interesting. One in particular was long, slow, and strange. I took a nap, I couldn't help it. I enjoyed these three in particular.

a. Luminaris: Impressive stop-motion and unusual subject matter.

b. Bear: Very funny. Very dark. (No trailer available, this is the best I could find.)

c. Short Memory: Shocking and very, very sad.

6. Eco-Pirate: The Story of Paul Watson
Directed by Trish Dolman
Premise: Paul Watson was an early member of Greenpeace. It didn't take long for it to become apparent that Watson was a bit too radical for the group. Differences regarding Greenpeace's strict non-violence policy resulted in Watson founding his own organization, Sea Shepard. Sea Shepard's goal is to prevent whale hunting, and the group will go to the extent of putting themselves in danger to do so. Oh man, this film did a number on me. If it was socially acceptable to full body heave sob in a packed movie theater, I would have done it. It's difficult to explain why. Obviously, whaling (and seal clubbing) is a very brutal thing. The images in this documentary are very graphic. But in addition to the images, I found elements of Paul Watson very sad. Let's just say that his opinion of humans is not very flattering. All that being said, this film is excellent and despite being very sad (for me), it was also inspiring.

7. George Harrison: Living in the Material World
Directed by Martin Scorsese
Premise: A documentary on the Beatle who was always a bit more mysterious than the rest. If you are already familiar with the life of George Harrison, this film won't teach you much. I knew a rough outline of Geroge's life (Beatles' rise, travels in India, solo career, died of cancer), so the film filled in a few holes. It's always fun to see old photographs and video clips, and to hear what people's friends have to say. The film is in two parts. Part one ends as the Beatles break up. Part two finishes the story. I personally preferred Scorsese's documentary on Bob Dylan, but that could be just because I knew less about Dylan beforehand.

That's a wrap!

xo, jill

Abu Dhabi Film Festival 2

2011-10-23T00:00:00.000+04:00

Chimps and trash.

The next two films I saw were brilliantly made documentaries. I love a good documentary. I could watch one on just about anything. A friend used to tease me when he found out I watched a documentary on Tupperware. But you know what? It was fascinating and I'd do it again.

3. Project Nim
Directed by James Marsh
Premise: A chimpanzee was taken from his mother at birth and raised in a New York human family. He was the subject in an experiment that aimed to explore a chimpanzee's capacity for learning language. Unfortunately for Nim, chimpanzees grow up and become stronger than their handlers, which mostly leads to disaster. What to do with a chimpanzee who is caught between human and animal? Chimpanzees who were raised as humans is an especially interesting topic for me. Have you ever heard about Lucy?

4. Taste the Waste
Directed by Valentin Thurn
Premise: Taste the Waste details the amount of food that is wasted each day in Europe and North America. It examines why literal tons of perfectly edible food are tossed in the trash on a daily basis. This film definitely got me thinking. I felt especially frustrated when I thought about how guilty I feel when I toss out a rotting tomato, meanwhile wholesalers dump pallets of tomatoes in the trash for being the wrong size, color, or too ripe. It also made me miss my compost bins.

xo, jill

Abu Dhabi Film Festival 1

2011-10-22T14:17:00.002+04:00

Chicken with early cinema.

The Abu Dhabi Film Festival is wrapping up today. The event is always highly anticipated. During the 10 days of the festival, movie-goers can view interesting and independent films from around the world. The usual cinema offerings are typically the major blockbusters from home (and sometimes edited).

This year I saw seven films and I thought it would be fun to share a few clips or trailers from each one.

1. Chicken with Plums (2011)
Directed by Marjane Satrapi and Vincent Paronnaud
Premise: After his tar is ruined, acclaimed muscian Nasser Ali loses his will to live. He retires to his bed and decides to die. Over the next 8 days the story of his life unfolds, revealing the real significance of his tar and musical career. It sounds like a downer and it is pretty sad. However, the film was very fun to watch and included humorous elements. It is based on Satrapi's graphic novel of the same name. If you liked Persepolis, you'll probably like this although the two are very different.

2. Saved from the Flames
Presented by Serge Bromberg
Premise: This was a special early cinema feature of the festival. Bromberg, a film historian, put together a series of films that narrowly escaped destruction. He explained that most cinemas used to throw out old movies in the same way we toss out newspapers today. Therefore, sadly, many important early films are lost. Some of the more interesting films and clips he showed included the earliest film from the Middle East (1903), a travel film from India (190?), and a previously forgotten Buster Keaton film, Love Nest (1923). The highlight of the presentation was a viewing of the recently restored in color, A Trip to the Moon (1902).

As you can imagine, most of these films are not available on the internet, but here's the first part of Love Nest.

xo, jill

Super speed

2011-10-20T00:00:00.001+04:00

Jillsvids.com*

Mike had a lot of fun this summer playing with the super-speed function on his camera. I took all of his little clips from the countries we visited together and made a little video.

Five countries in less than two minutes... here we go... !!!

Dizzy?

xo, jill

*Where my travelators at?!

Novelty Snacks of Italy

2011-10-19T16:02:00.006+04:00

Other than pizza.

Novelty Snack: Lemon Soda, la limonata

Description: Lemon soda with pulp, 12% lemon juice
Tastes Like: A lemon flavored Hall's cough drop (I love the citrus pack). Good for slow sips but not quick gulps.

Verdict: Thumbs up!

Novelty Snack: Cipster

Description: Little potato chip curls
Tastes Like: Nice and light and salty. I bought these twice! (And I'm actually eating these as part of my breakfast in these photos!)

Verdict: Thumbs up!

Novelty Snack: Fonzies Cheesmania

Description: Four cheese Cheeto-like snack
Tastes Like: Crunchy cheetos with a very strong blue cheese flavor (Mike got it right, I thought they tasted really buttery).

Verdict: Thumbs up!

Novelty Snack: Quore di cacao flavored gelato

Description: Italian ice cream
Tastes Like: There was no way I was leaving Italy without getting a little gelato. This scoop was chocolatey, smooth, and delicious.

Verdict: Thumbs up!

Another round of delicious eating!

xo, jill

Fruit of my labor

2011-10-17T16:11:00.005+04:00

Why yes, this did happen in my classroom today.

Student in a strawberry costume asking, "Is it cloudy?"

Everyday a new surprise.

xo, jill

Novelty Snacks of Slovenia

2011-10-16T16:06:00.000+04:00

Minus the cube of yeast.

Novelty Snack: Kviki paprika flavor

Description: a small bread stick
Tastes Like: The shape and size of this snack had me expecting it to be a corn nut or peanut, so crunching down on a bread stick was a disappointment.

Verdict: Thumbs neutral

Novelty Snack: Kremma Rezina

Description: A very famous custard and cream cake.
Tastes Like: Vanilla custard and whipped cream sandwiched between puff pastry. This is a famous dessert so I feel a little guilty saying that I could not eat it. The texture of the custard created a slimy feeling on the back of my throat. The flavor is also really mild and not too interesting.

Verdict: Thumbs neutral

Novelty Snack: Bobi

Description: Peanut butter puffs
Tastes Like: These are basically peanut butter flavored Cheetos. They are very salty and melt in your mouth.

Verdict: Thumbs up!

Novelty Snack: Cockta!

Description: A local soft drink consisting of 12 different herbs. The most prominent flavor is dog rose hip. (Not pronounced how it looks. I learned that mistake the hard way as I kept repeating "Cock-tah" to the shopkeeper. He finally got it, "Oh, Coke-tah?" Oops.)
Tastes Like: Very sweet cough syrup. I was expecting cola and was unpleasantly surprised. However, I suppose it could be a flavor that grows on you. It's very popular in Slovenia.

Verdict: Thumbs down!

xo, jill

Novelty Snacks of Hungary

2011-10-15T08:50:00.005+04:00

A pun would be too easy.

Novelty Snack: Jana lemon lime water (dedicated to my sister, Jana)

Description: Lemon lime flavored water
Tastes Like: Water with a teeny tiny aftertaste of citrus, you almost don't notice it

Verdict: Thumbs up!

Novelty Snack: Langos

Description: "a Hungarian food speciality, a deep fried flat bread made of a dough with flour, yeast, salt and water." - wikipedia
Tastes Like: Similar to a savory elephant ear but thicker and with garlic sauce, very good.

Verdict: Thumbs up!

Novelty Snack: JoReggelt!

Description: A healthy cookie with vitamins and minerals. I imagine this being something recommended in a commercial for a work lunch at the cubicle.
Tastes Like: A chocolatey, crumbly, cookie with visible chunks of wheat and oatmeal. The chocolate chunks were also melty which surprised me but could have been due to the amazingly hot train we were on.

Verdict: Thumbs up!

Mike ate a lot of goulash during this phase of the trip. If I was thinking I would have made him compile a novelty snack report.

With the addition of Jana water, every member of my immediate family has their very own novelty snack, except for my mom. I now consider it a mission! Mom, I will find you a snack! (see my snack and my dad's snack)

xo, jill

Novelty Snacks of Austria

2011-10-14T14:20:00.005+04:00

More than just schnitzel.

Novelty snack posts are the most fun to write. With five countries to cover, I tried to limit myself to just a few snacks in each. Our time in Slovakia was so brief that I didn't manage to novelty snack even once!

Mike sneaked a shot of me recording my "research."

On to the snacks.

Novelty Snack: Weisser Spritzer

Description: A concoction of white wine and soda water, 5.5% alcohol
Tastes Like: A very dry cider, good for slow sipping on a hot day

Verdict: Thumbs neutral

Novelty Snack: Jumpy's
Description: Kangaroo shaped potato snack, paprika flavor, gluten free
Tastes Like: Similar flavor to barbeque but more mild. Good for someone like me who's not too keen on BBQ flavoring. Also perfect for the novelty snacker who can't have gluten!

Verdict: Thumbs up!

Novelty Snack: Apple Strudel
Description: "a type of sweet or savoury layered pastry with a filling inside, that gained popularity in the 18th century through the Habsburg Empire." - wikipedia
Tastes Like: Mushy apples with overly plump raisins

Verdict: Thumbs neutral

Novelty Snack: Dren und Trink
Description: Cherry lemonade in a Squeezeit like container.
Tastes Like: A cherry Jolly Rancher. This is much more candy than juice and will likely cause a headache if too much is consumed.

Verdict: Thumbs up!

Novelty Snack: Almdudler Limonade
Description: 32 natural herbs make up the unique flavor offered by an Austrian family owned business since 1957
Tastes Like: Unique is right, but not the good kind. This is bitter and hard to drink lemonade.

Verdict: Thumbs down!

Novelty Snack: Original Gold Fischli, fein gesalzen
Description: A fairly basic goldfish cracker
Tastes Like: Delicious. A cross between a buttery flavor and a sesame flavor

Verdict: Thumbs up!

xo, jill

Not my home and native land...

2011-10-13T14:06:00.006+04:00

But still happy to celebrate.

Canada's Thanksgiving was this past Monday. Once again, Hannah and I were happy to put together a little celebration for our Canadian friends.

You might remember some of the decor from last year. For some reason is feels important to differentiate that this Thanksgiving is Canadian. We have to remember to save some of our thankfulness for next month.

After a delicious dinner and dessert we gathered around for a Thanksgiving craft. We made traditional hand print turkeys with a twist. I cut out little Canadian icons so we could dress up our turkeys paper doll style.

Just over a month and it will be the Americans' turn to celebrate!

xo, jill

Arrivederci, Venezia!

2011-10-12T16:57:00.007+04:00

The final countdown.

The final day of a trip can be funny. Sometimes I'm anxious because I'm ready to be settled. Sometimes I'm sad because I'm not ready to go back. This time... I was not ready. It's not easy to leave the beauty and charm of Europe. Especially when you know what's waiting for you in Abu Dhabi: HEAT!

We did our best to enjoy our last day and not let thoughts of the school year creep into our minds. It's a good thing Venice provides so many beautiful buildings to look at.

We headed back to the piazza with some bread because as gross as it is, you can't leave Venice without a pigeon photo.

We also stopped into a church that had a modern art installation inside and this mosaic displayed outside. Each piece is a painted egg.

There's something about clotheslines, isn't there? They look pretty everywhere you go (but much less so in your own backyard.)

Levi's print ad?

The sunset was lovely that night. After dark we sat on a bench and watched a lightning storm over the Laguna.

photo by Mike

The next morning we were headed to Abu Dhabi via Istanbul. All good things must end.

xo, jill

Plenty of merchants in Venice.

2011-10-09T16:43:00.007+04:00

Like Italian Disneyland.

Our first order of business after finding our apartment in Venice was to find some pizza. Luckily, eating pizza in Italy was much more delicious than eating Swedish fish in Sweden.

After pizza it was time to do some exploring. Venice is basically a maze. A maze of canals, a maze of buildings, and a maze of tourists. I can honestly say this was the most touristy place I've ever been.

It's difficult for me to articulate my thoughts on Venice. There's no denying its beauty. It is definitely the most picturesque and unique city I've ever visited. However, like I said, there are tourists (Mike and I, included) covering the city. It's seriously like being at Disneyland, strollers and all. (Someone explain to me why you'd want to bring your young children to Venice? Not only is there the constant danger of drowning, but you also have to carry your stroller up and over a bridge every 5 minutes.)

Mike and I had several conversations about what it felt like to be walking around a fossil of a city. Especially when you're on the main paths, it's difficult to believe that any locals still live on the canals at all. Luckily for us, our apartment was on the edge of the Laguna and in a building of mostly local people. On our way in and out we often saw old couples relaxing on their balconies and once saw a group of people lined up along the canal to receive their groceries via boat.

We did a lot of walking in Venice. We didn't want to pay the entrance fees for most of the attractions (partly because we're both frugal, partly because it was the end of the trip when entry fees are even less appealing), but were able to entertain ourselves by taking photos and getting lost in the many small alleys.

Rialto Bridge

We hoped to enter St. Mark's Cathedral (which is free) but the line of visitors was at least 4 people thick and stretched further than the eye could see (literally). No matter. We were fine playing in the piazza out front.

Up in the air. / Down on the ground.

Below are two of my favorite sights in the square. On the left is the makings of an awesome childhood photo and on the right is a little granny of a girl who loved chasing the pigeons. (Something about her was so comical and grandma-like. Especially the fit she threw when her mom put an end to the pigeon torture.)

One of the nice things about there being so many tourists around is that you don't feel like an idiot taking a photo every time you turn your head. Or walking out on a dock for the perfect shot because 5 other people just did the same thing.

Sometimes I think Mike should be a catalog model.

Since you can only walk so much in one day, we eventually headed back to our apartment. I knew my feet could use a rest before we picked up walking again the next day.

photo by Mike

xo, jill

Skocjan Caves

2011-10-08T18:19:00.006+04:00

Contents unknown.

After our sleep in prison, Mike and I boarded a train to the tiny town of Divaca. Just a few kilometers away is the entrance to a massive underground cave system known as the Skocjan Caves.

Visitors to the caves must join a guided tour but there are a few different routes to choose from. We stuck to the classic route since we had places to be later in the day.

Unfortunately, photographs are not allowed inside the caves but if you'd like a little peek click here.

Inside, the caves are surprisingly massive. (It's the volume of the caves that make them so famous.) I never felt claustrophobic once. The only anxiety provoking parts were crossing the 47 meter high bridge and seeing the old dilapidated "tourist trails" on the steep sides of the caves. It's a wonder no early tourists died on their adventures.

The tour lasts about an hour and a half and exits not too far from the ticket office. Here's the exit point of the cave.

photo by Mike

After our spelunking, we set about figuring out how to get to Italy. It wasn't as easy/cheap as we hoped. We needed to take the train to another town (Sezana) and then a taxi into Trieste. Once in Trieste, it got a bit iffy. With no map, limited directions to our hostel ("It's near the Gallery"), and heavy packs, I felt a little discouraged. Luckily, wandering around the city eventually led us to the poorly placed tourist information office and then our hostel shortly after that.

The only exciting thing to report from Trieste would be the greatest license plate of all time:

Next stop: Venice.

xo, jill

Bled Island

2011-10-07T15:14:00.005+04:00

Tiny.

After retuning from hiking Vintgar Gorge, we hopped onto a pletna and headed towards the island. I don't know exactly how it works for the pletna pilot, but at 12 euros a head and 20+ heads on a boat, it seems like a pretty sweet job. Mike and I were both thinking we were in the wrong business (although I'm sure they pay some sort of tax for the right to operate). As soon as I bulk up my arms (and learn to swim properly), I'm heading back to the dock with a resume in hand.

It takes about 30 minutes to reach the island and you are given 30 minutes to explore as you like. You can also hire your own boat but we were told that private rentals were suspended due to the regatta. (We saw a few people out in rented boats though so I think that was misinformation.)

The island was cute and tiny and peaceful. You can enter the church for a fee but we preferred to stay outside.

When we returned to the mainland it was time to fetch our luggage and head back to Ljubljana. We stayed at a place that is housed in a former prison. Now the building is part hostel part art gallery. Each former prison cell has been remodeled by various artists and turned into guest rooms. Ours featured photographs from around the world and lofted beds. It may come as no surprise to hear that our stay was actually a bit uncomfortable and claustrophobic. Now that the novelty of sleeping in a prison cell has passed, I probably won't seek out the experience again.

xo, jill

Vintgar Gorge

2011-10-06T14:39:00.002+04:00

Reminded me of home.

Our last morning in Bled we didn't have much on the schedule. We had hoped to venture further into the Julian Alps but the bus schedule didn't work for us. We had met some fellow travelers at breakfast who mentioned they were heading to Vintgar Gorge. It sounded like a good alternative activity.

Vintgar Gorge is about 4 kilometers from Bled and is a nice and easy hike. The trail is 1.6 kilometers each way through a narrow passage. For a good portion of the walk you are actually walking on wooden bridges built onto the sides of the gorge.

The trail ends at a pretty but unimpressive waterfall. Walking through the gorge definitely reminded me of the greenery back home. If only people cut out little hearts in their shutters in the States.

We walked back to town via a road pointed out to us by our taxi driver. Walking was Mike's decision and I'm so glad I went along with it. We passed through sleepy little communities that made me wish I had a little house to warm myself.

When we arrived back in Bled the Rowing World Championships were underway and I was finally reunited with my long-lost-black-and-white-stripes-wearing family. It felt good to belong.

I should point out there was a father, too.

xo, jill

Big news.

2011-10-04T21:05:00.003+04:00

If you're Canadian.

Rumors have been circulating for quite some time that the famous Canadian coffee shop, Tim Hortons, is coming to the UAE. In fact, the Abu Dhabi location has been poised to open for months. Everyone has been eagerly waiting for the big day (everyone = Canadians.) Really though, it's a hot topic of conversation! Although I can't relate to the excitement that Tim Hortons stirs in Canadian hearts, I imagine I'd feel the same way if Burgerville popped up anywhere near my general vicinity.

While the Abu Dhabi shop isn't quite ready, (who knows why), the Dubai location finally opened its doors a week or two ago.

that's either fog on my lens or Tim Hortons magic

Last weekend, Mike and I decided to go check it out for ourselves.

The place was definitely popular. The line was out the door most of the time we were waiting. The seating area was packed so we opted for takeaway. Mike says the coffee tastes like home and while I personally think coffee is disgusting, I approved of my very first Timbit (even though it was not what I was expecting.)

Here's to Canada upping its game on globalization!

xo, jill

I could tell you a dirty joke about a canoe...

2011-10-02T16:09:00.004+04:00

but I won't.

After hiking around Lake Bled, Mike and I hopped on a bus headed to a much larger and less developed body of water, Lake Bohinj.

After taking a quick little dip, we decided to rent a canoe for a few hours.

We weren't on the water too long before the weather began to change. The wind was blowing just strong enough to shake the canoe and make me nervous (not a natural water person). We decided to take a little break and headed towards the nearest shore. Now, I can tell you this was not on purpose... with plenty of empty bank to venture towards, we landed right next to some... naked people. (Remember, it was windy! We were being blown a bit off course!) While I really don't mind if people want to enjoy some mostly-private clothes-off time, I do mind (at least a little bit) being perceived as a pervert. They promptly dressed and took off.

While on shore we tried to take a few photos of us out in the water. We mostly ended up with pictures of me between Mike's legs (he was setting up the timer). While they aren't the best photos in the world, they definitely make me smile.

Eventually we got a few better shots but the lighting was poor.

On our way back to the boathouse the rain began. There's definitely no shelter from raindrops in a canoe. Not that it matters too much when you're already in your bathing suit.

While we waited for our bus back to Bled we enjoyed the polka festival that was happening close by. The rain didn't seem to dampen the festivities (pun intended?).

xo, jill

PS. I just have to say that while picking up a few items for a picnic at the lake, I selected an unusual cheese. It was a small cube and very soft. Perfect for spreading without a knife, right? Well... turned out it was kind of disgusting. Kudos to Mike for figuring out what I actually bought. A block of yeast. Yuck.

Perpetual postcard.

2011-09-29T20:36:00.008+04:00

Picture perfect.

Can you see the park we swam at beneath the castle?

One of the many appeals of Slovenia is the opportunity for outdoor adventures. The area around Bled in particular offers visitors plenty of opportunities to get outside. With only a limited amount of time in the area, we decided to take the classic hike: around the lake with a stop at the Velika Osojnica viewpoint.

Family/friends from home, can you read my shirt?

Walking along the water was more of a stroll than a hike. We passed a few sweet old Slovenian women beginning their day by bathing in the lake. We also got a closer view of the famous island. This little island and the church upon it are what make Bled the romantic and picturesque destination that it is. You'll be seeing plenty of photos.

The Church of the Assumption plays an important role in town. On weekends you can spot grooms carrying their brides up the 99 steps to the church door. We kept our eyes open for a glimpse of the local tradition but I think it was a bit too early in the day for wedding festivities.

The trailhead for the viewpoint took us up up up and up the side of the mountain. I kept thinking the end must be near... but no. There's even a nice little spot with a bench at the top of a very steep set of stairs that makes you think you're at the top, but you're not. Persevering was well worth the effort, the view from the tippy-top was even better.

xo, jill

Bled.

2011-09-27T19:36:00.000+04:00

Be still my heart.

After our day of sightseeing in Ljubljana, we took a bus to our next Slovenian destination: Bled.

I am so in love with this little town. Bled is a very popular tourist destination (you'll see why in my next post) but we weren't tripping over tourists. Even with the World Rowing Championships in town, Bled wasn't very crowded.

photo by Mike

The B&B we stayed in was a giant traditional house with three floors and several rooms. I loved the house but the atmosphere was a bit... unfriendly. We think our host may have been having a bad day (or two).

Just outside we found the proof that Slovenians tend to be religious.

Whatever happened to gnome lawn art?

After settling in to our room, our first order of business was to swim in the gorgeous green lake. Due to the regatta, swimming was forbidden in several areas. We chose to swim at a park located under the local castle. We left our cameras in the room in favor of a worry free afternoon.

In the evening we walked along the water and enjoyed the fresh air. Being outside in pleasant weather feels like a luxury when you know you're heading back to heat and humidity in just a few short days.

I found a few pretty flowers too.

xo, jill

City of Love

2011-09-22T15:47:00.003+04:00

Ljubljana.

We arrived in Ljubljana after dark. We checked into our hostel, which was actually dormitory housing for the university, and set out to explore the city. Searching for food on an empty stomach is sometimes the most annoying part of travel. I tend to get a little grumpy when I'm hungry. Mike tends to want to find the perfect meal. It rarely goes well. We ended up eating the one food we were hoping to avoid: felafel. (Nothing against it, but when you live where we do you tend to eat it a lot.)

The next morning after breakfast in the dining hall we walked towards the center of the city. We were lucky to catch a free city tour just as it was leaving the square. Free walking tours are one of my favorite things to do in a new city. We were also lucky that our guide was an anthropologist and was very knowledgeable about Ljubljana and Slovenia in general.

To get started with our tour we went past Triple Bridge. There's a main crossing in the middle and two smaller crossings on the sides. Originally cars were allowed over the main crossing and pedestrians took the outer sides. Now the center of town is a pedestrian only zone and people can cross the bridge any which way they like.

The city also has an unofficial lovers bridge for anyone wanting to lock their love. Slovenians like to refer to Ljubljana as the "City of Love" because the word for "beloved" sounds very similar: "ljubjlena".

Our guide led us to St. Nicholas' Cathedral to view the lovely dome. The main door of the cathedral depicts the 1250 years of Christianity in Slovenia and was dedicated to the pope. We were told that traditionally Slovenians are quite religious and we found this to be true later in our trip. (However, I checked out a few stats and it seems things are changing.)

Despite the warm weather, it was very pleasant to walk around the city. The buildings were old but charming and it never hurts to have a river winding through town. By the time our guide explained to us that a university education is essentially free (she paid about 20 euros, she guessed), I was feeling pretty jealous.

This street here will take you up to the castle on the hill...

but I insisted on riding the funicular. It's not every day you have the opportunity to get your funicular on!

The highlight of the castle was essentially the view. We walked into a chapel briefly and were on our way out when a huuuge tour group was on their way in. It was comical as we waited at the door as a looong train of elderly tourists filed in. I felt a bit trapped.

Later we sat by the river at a cafe and enjoyed being outdoors in a pleasant place.

That night the city was having a festival with live music and street vendors galore. It's always fun to be in town for a festival but eventually I grew tired of the music that had become "middle aged person jazz." Mike disagreed but was nice enough to accompany me back for the night.

xo, jill

Crossing borders.

2011-09-18T16:57:00.003+04:00

Slowly but surely.

The destination Mike and I were most excited for on our trip was Slovenia. As we were preparing to leave Budapest, only 9 hours of train travel stood in our way.

We boarded the train and made ourselves comfortable in our very own little cabin (not sure the proper term for those). Very few people were riding the train that day. Nearly every other cabin was empty. So imagine our surprise when an elderly Hungarian couple made themselves comfortable in our little cabin too! Luckily, they were sweet and adorable. When offering us water the woman put the bottle up against Mike's leg to help demonstrate that it was cold!

the view

After 4 hours they disembarked and we spent the remaining 5 hours on our own. I was glad for the extra space since the train was HOT and sprawling was really the only comfortable position.

xo, jill

Kiva Loan: September

2011-09-17T20:36:00.000+04:00

9 down, 3 to go!

When I checked the balance in my Kiva account today I saw a number that made me very happy! Enough money had been repaid over the last month to entirely fund another loan (with just one penny left to spare). Awesome!

Photo from Nancy's Kiva listing

September's loan goes to Nancy. Nancy lives in Kenya and supports her family with her tailoring business. Over the last year Nancy has had enough success to hire one employee. She hopes to expand her business by using the loan to purchase more fabric.

Anyone else experiencing some Kiva success?

xo, jill

Terror, fried bread, and musical fountains.

2011-09-16T19:16:00.003+04:00

Wrapping up.

Our last day in Budapest was comprised of an interesting mix of activities. First, we spent a good chunk of time buying our train ticket for the following day. The timings listed on the railway's website were erroneous and figuring out the proper information involved two different ticket offices in two different locations.

Once our tickets were purchased we were ready for some more exploration. Our first stop was at the House of Terror, a museum that details life in Hungary under the fascist Nazi regime and the Soviet controlled communist regime that immediately followed.

The museum is located in the very spot that these regimes housed their secret police. Hundreds of people were brought to this building and jailed or executed in the basement. The basement cells have been recreated for visitors and are truly eerie to view. On the upper floors screens plays videos of people detailing the atrocities they lived through under both regimes.

Although many of the displays required reading long paragraphs on copy paper to be understood, the experience was still powerful. The scariest part was realizing that these horrible events happened really not so long ago.

After our somber visit to the House of Terror we walked around a bit searching for our next attraction. For me, that happened to be really tall ice cream.

crooked shades

We also stopped by The Great Synagogue (the largest in Eurasia) and The Great Market Hall.

I was mostly interested in getting a taste of lángos, fried bread with garlic.

That evening we strolled out to a bridge to get a nice capture of the city at golden hour.

click for larger viewing options

Then we continued on to Margaret Island to spend our evening in the park. We enjoyed laying in the grass and listening to the musical fountain. It was so much simpler than the fancy one at Dubai Mall. We both decided we'd take the simple fountain over the lavish one any day.

xo, jill

At the baths.

2011-09-15T14:40:00.002+04:00

Yellow and blue.

I haven't mentioned yet that our visit to Budapest coincided with a toasty heatwave. We were told that the hot weather we were experiencing was not typical for the city. For a bit of relief, we headed to the baths.

Budapest is filled with Turkish style baths. Thermal springs run beneath Budapest and power the many pools. The baths are believed to contain healing waters and many people bathe as a medical treatment for arthritis, joint and back pain, and gynecological issues (although I can't imagine that last one). The waters can even be ingested to treat gout, kidney stones, ulcers, and calcium deficiencies. Judging from the smell, I bet it tastes great, too.

Upon the recommendation of our hostel, we decided to visit the Széchenyi Spa. This spa allows men and women to soak together, which might be an important factor to consider if you're traveling with a member of the opposite sex.

I just noticed the lady bathing between us. I kind of love her.

The Széchenyi Spa was built in 1913 and is the largest medicinal spa in Europe. I loved the contrast of the yellow buildings and the blue pools. Such vibrant colors. If you've seen pictures of local old men in tiny swimsuits bathing and playing chess, this is the place.

We started slowly in the warm outdoor pools before going inside to the main event. Indoors you can choose from icy baths, hot baths, hotter baths, and several temperatures of saunas. I enjoyed the hot baths and avoided the saunas (I hate hot air on my face). Mike tested out a little bit of everything.

God's gift, right there.

I have to say, these were the fanciest baths I've ever taken. I would say the stinkiest too, but the hot springs in Peru will probably forever hold that title. Visiting the baths was definitely a fun and relaxing experience.

We got many good laughs out of this one. Mike's idea.

Later in the day we cooked a quick pasta dinner at the hostel and took another walk along the water.

We ended up on a bench in a park watching fire dancers with me fighting to keep my eyes open.

xo, jill

Two cities in one.

2011-09-14T20:40:00.003+04:00

Twice as nice.*

After our short stay in Bratislava, we hopped on a train to Budapest. The ride was pleasant and comfortable. The thing about train travel is... I really like it until the train nears my destination. Depending on the train it's not always super clear which station you are approaching. Not to mention, trains usually only stop for a few minutes (if that) at each stop. If you're not prepared you could find yourself far down the rail line... and without a ticket. That's why I became hyper-vigilante when the time of our arrival drew near. Unfortunately, the train was at least 45 minutes late arriving at the station in Budapest. That meant that when Mike kept telling me to calm down and stop standing up to press my cheek up against the window for a better look, he was actually right.

We arrived at our hostel a bit later than expected and were greeted by the very friendly proprietor. He took out a map and immediately began jotting down the best routes for our visit.

We started off walking along the Danube and quickly came upon Shoes on the Danube Promenade. The shoes are a memorial to the people who were shot into the river during World War II. I really appreciated the uniqueness of the memorial. It's haunting to see abandoned shoes on the edge of a river.

Just past the memorial is the Hungarian Parliament Building. Completed in 1904, the building was built in the Gothic Revival style. Not that I have to say it, but...this building is striking. I have several photos of it from many different vantages. It just demanded to be photographed. Although we didn't enter the building, it was immediately obvious why Parliament is one of Budapest's main tourist attractions.

We crossed the bridge and rode a funicular to the top of Castle Hill. A folk festival was taking place so a good portion of the grounds were closed to those who hadn't paid admission. That included us. Instead, we walked towards Matthias Church. I'm sure the interior is beautiful (we weren't able to enter at the time), but could it be more interesting than that roof? I love the colorful design.

I had to laugh when I saw this little boy attempting to scale this statue. I almost felt like I was back in Abu Dhabi.

From just beyond the church a viewpoint looks out over the Danube towards the Parliament Building. There just happened to be a string quartet playing close by. And did I mention it was golden hour? Well played, Castle Hill.

We lingered on the hill a bit longer before descending to get a look at Parliament from directly across the water.

I'm not orange. It's just a weird setting on Mike's camera that hates my skin tone.

We stopped on our way back over the bridge for some nighttime photos of the city.

On our way to dinner we happened upon an outdoor concert. We tried to eat quickly and hurry back to the music but the show was wrapping up just as we sat down on a bench to listen. I think I was half asleep at this point so it was probably just as well.

xo, jill

*Budapest became a single city after the smaller cities of Buda and Pest united in 1873.

Bratislava

2011-09-13T16:35:00.005+04:00

Not like in the movies.

Bratislava, the capital city of Slovakia, is only a 40 minute bus ride from Vienna. You can get there even faster if you take the train. Unfortunately, the city has a bit of a reputation. Most people know about Bratislava because of its appearances in a few well known movies. Almost every time I told someone this summer I was going to Bratislava, one of these two movies came up: Eurotrip or Hostel. Eurotrip represents the city as a dirty backwards place where only a few pennies will buy you a stay at a 5 star hotel with plenty left over for tuxedos and fancy meals. Hostel represents the city as a backdrop to horrifying torture. Thank goodness that wasn't the case for us.

True, our hostel wasn't the prettiest place, but our one night stay didn't require anything too fancy.

When we arrived we walked a few blocks to the old part of town. A walking tour was set to depart shortly so we decided to join. A university student led us around town telling stories about the history of Slovakia, the era under Communism, and how special it was to finally be recognized as its own country.

Town Hall

"prettiest building in the city"

Crowns on the street denote the coronation route.

Home of the President

The Blue Church

After the tour we walked up the hill to the castle.

From the top you can see into the other side of Bratislava. The side that isn't quite so charming and definitely exposes their Communist past. Ugly buildings. Ug-ly. And too bad for that UFO bridge.

We also had some really good ice cream here and went on a looong and fruitless search for Taco Rey, a veggie friendly taco shop. There's no greater disappointment than thinking you're getting some fresh veggie tacos and then sitting down to (expensive) vegetable broth for dinner.

We had low expectations for our visit. Mostly due to the movie references above and the very few pages dedicated to the city in our Lonely Planet. I think that both of us were pleasantly surprised at what we found. We were glad we included Bratislava in our trip, but also glad it was only one night.

xo, jill

Wurstelprater

2011-09-12T16:29:00.007+04:00

or that time Mike won 190 euros.

Our walk along the Danube Canal brought us to Wurstelprater, also known as the Prater Fun Park.

Our first point of interest was the Riesenrad, or Giant Wheel.

When the wheel was built for Franz Josef's I's golden Jubilee in 1897 it was the largest wheel in the world. 64.75 meters! (Today's tallest wheel is in Singapore at 165 meters tall. Wow!) Riesenrad might look familiar to you if you're a fan of the movie Before Sunrise (Chelsea!).

I always enjoy viewing a city from a different perspective. Unfortunately, it was a bit overcast that day to see into the distance.

After the wheel we walked around the amusement park.

It's always a bit odd to be at an amusement park in the middle of the day. Especially, when there's a notable absence of crowds. Everything just seems a bit more out of place and creepy. In fact, double dose of creepiness in...

3...

2...

1...

On our way out we stopped into a casino so Mike could drop 2 euros into a slot machine. 20 minutes later he exited with 190. Well played.

Rain interrupted a bit of our day but we ended up back at Museumquartier for another round at the photo booth and hammock house. This time Ikea had set up an interesting installation. Different colors and varieties of couches were arranged in the courtyard for people to relax and socialize on. We took advantage of the offer along with everyone else. Another great idea!

xo, jill

The scenic route.

2011-09-11T16:30:00.003+04:00

If you like graffiti.

The following day we started out walking.

Our first stop was at Hofburg Palace. Historically, this was the winter home of the Habsburgs. Currently, the Austrian president lives here. There are a few museums on the premises, but we passed them up in favor of being outside (and keeping our money).

whaaa?

We continued our walk along the Danube Canal toward the Prater Fun Fair (more on that later). We both enjoy street art so this truly was the scenic route.

The more natural view was quite pretty too.

xo, jill

Step three.

2011-09-10T18:10:00.005+04:00

Begin European adventure.

The first day Mike and I spent together in Vienna is a bit of a blur. I believe we started the day by getting a few groceries and having breakfast in the apartment. Judging from the photos the next thing we did was go to Stephanplatz. I wanted to play with my zoom lens a bit and capturing the gargoyles on the roof seemed like a pretty good way to do it. We also took a tour of the catacombs and saw the vessels that contain some of the Habsburg family's organs. Photography was not permitted.

While trying (unsuccessfully) to find a vegetarian restaurant listed in Lonely Planet we happened upon the famous Anchor Clock. The special interest with this clock is that as the minutes tick, famous figures move across the face. At noon all of the figures parade by while music plays.

We headed to the Museumquartier with hopes of visiting the Museum of Modern Art. Unfortunately, it was closed for renovations! Fortunately, from across the courtyard I spotted a photo booth! It was the same photo booth that I had scouted out online prior to the trip. Everyone loves a photo booth!

Next, we rounded the corner of the Museumquartier only to find another surprise! Flederhaus! A house of hammocks! I saw this post over the summer and knew that Mike and I had to make Flederhaus a priority. Relaxing in hammocks in the middle of the city? Yes, please! The installment was designed by Heri and Salli and will stay up until October. I hope the installation is set up every summer. It was one of the highlights of our entire trip.

After relaxing in the air for a bit, we sought out another vegetarian restaurant. This one we found. St. Josef was definitely worth a little bit of walking. This was by far my favorite meal of the trip. It was healthy, filling, and fresh. I was happy.

We returned to the apartment with the intention of taking a nap before heading out again. Instead, we went to bed at 7:00pm. I guess we needed it.

xo, jill

Step two.

2011-09-07T20:26:00.006+04:00

Keep busy.

My first morning in Vienna I packed up my bags and set off to find the apartment Mike and I would be staying in during our visit. On the way I discovered some fun street art and a metro line on hiatus. That always seems to happen. An attendant pointed me to the proper tram and I found the apartment in no time.

Mike's flight didn't arrive until later that evening so I had the full day to keep myself entertained. It wasn't too hard.

First up was a visit to Schöbrunn Palace, the summer home of the Habsburgs. The palace is one of the major tourist attractions in Vienna which was evidenced by the long line to buy entrance tickets. I didn't mind waiting since I wasn't in a rush, but I would recommend buying tickets online if you're on a tight schedule.

I paid to see 44 of the 1,400 total rooms. Grander tours are available, but 44 seemed like enough to me. It's always fun to see place settings, bedrooms, and the toilets of very important people... but after awhile the stuffy portraits on the walls tend to look the same.

While I enjoyed peeking inside the palace, the gardens were even lovelier (and free!). You could spend a day sight seeing in just the gardens alone.

From the palace I headed to Zentralfriedhof, Vienna's most famous cemetery. I entered through the wrong gate which resulted in a long walk through neglected headstones. It was nice and shady so I didn't mind too much until I stumbled upon a procession. Thank goodness the hearse turned down the row ahead of where I was walking so I didn't crash the party.

The diagrams posted in the "popular" part of the cemetery were only in German but I was able to find these two important composers before heading back to the apartment.

Mike's flight landed and finally, it was time for the slow-motion-running-towards-each-other moment. Except, it was more like speed-walking-with-a-shy-smile because neither one of us had our glasses on and the lighting on the street was pretty dim. I didn't want to be running up to a stranger and have Mike come around the corner at that exact moment. Oops.

sleepy Mike?

xo, jill

Ithnan.

2011-09-06T15:51:00.003+04:00

"Two"

Today marks two years of living in Abu Dhabi.

xo, jill

Step one.

2011-09-05T15:22:00.004+04:00

Arrive in Vienna.

When I landed in Vienna, I was completely exhausted. I successfully caught the correct bus from the airport and found my hostel without too much trouble. Then I fell asleep. After about 3 hours of dozing in a warm room, I forced myself up to check out the city.

I didn't know exactly where I wanted to go so I figured the center of town was probably a good start. It was a pretty smart choice considering that the center of town is also the site of St. Stephen's Cathedral. Supposedly, one day Beethoven looked up at the bell tower at St. Stephen's. He saw birds flying from the loud clanging of the bells, but didn't hear a sound. This is when he realized he was deaf.

After visiting the cathedral I continued walking to Stadtpark. I had a little rest and my first meal of the trip: felafel.

Determined to keep myself awake until at least 9:00pm, I returned to my hostel and had a chat with an Australian who had recently visited Dubai. Depsite claiming that she was sleepy too, her chattiness kept me up until nearly 10:30pm. I was wiped out.

xo, jill

Q&A

2011-09-02T12:18:00.002+04:00

Q. How do you return to Abu Dhabi after two and a half amazing weeks in Europe?

A. Reluctantly.

I'm back.

xo, jill

Hola, Peru!

2011-09-01T00:00:00.000+04:00

[I'm still out traveling, but I have a new mini series to share! Believe it or not, I did a bit of traveling before blogging came in vogue. Over the next few days I'll share posts about 3 trips I took pre-bloglife. The first is here and the second there.]

After finishing university, I was looking for my next big goal. It felt a little funny to not have something really obvious that I was working towards. One of my life goals is to visit all 7 continents, so I decided I should start working on that. I hadn't been to South America yet and Peru had the cheapest airfare. I was going to Peru!

All I had to do was ask once and my good friend Shauna was ready to take the adventure with me. We took care to plan every little detail and had everything set weeks in advance. (This is a far cry as to how I travel now!)

My intrepid travel partner and me.

Our trip began in Cusco where we immediately hit the ground running and got a bit of the altitude sickness. Not a good feeling. I definitely recommend taking it easy your first day. The altitude is pretty intense.

Women in the main square in Cusco.

The view from the train on our way to Aguas Calientes (the city nearest Machu Picchu).

Our first big site was the incredible Machu Picchu. We didn't have time to trek in but we did wake up super early to watch the sunrise over the ancient city. Incredible.

Wowza.

Sitting in a window at Machu Picchu.

Next we dropped in at Casa de Milagros. It's really hard to describe Casa de Milagros. "Orphanage" is close but not quite right. The couple who run the home consider each of the children living there to be their sons and daughters. It's a giant family that welcomes volunteers and interns and does work in the greater community. We were there to drop off some very heavy school supplies we collected and brought with us.

A colorful sign at Casa de Milagros.

Casa de Milagros is in an old and colorful hacienda.

We traveled south to Lake Titicaca where we participated in a homestay on the island of Amantani. Our hosts had a lovely and very comfortable home. We felt very welcome even though there were a few awkward moments. (Shauna asking in Spanish: "Does the toilet function?")

Locals on the lake.

Grandma and baby Mildred of our host family.

Lake Titicaca from the top of Amantani.

Before leaving we took a flight to Puetro Maldonado, a town in the middle of the Amazon. From there we ventured further into the rainforest for a stay at an eco-lodge. Ummm... this portion of the trip was half amazing and half awful. Let's just say food poisoning in the middle of the night in a hut with thin walls is not pleasant...especially when I found out the entire guest list heard my retching.

This is the outcome of a runny nose, scratchy throat, plugged up ear, vomiting all night, and still going on the 6 hour 10k trek through the jungle.

We finished off our trip in Lima where we accidentally stayed in a... um... how do you say... hooker hotel? Shauna did a great job of documenting our confusion and horror when we realized those men and women coming in and out of rooms were there for a very different reason than us. The porno shoot we stumbled upon was the tip off. So yeah, I'd say skip Lima if you can... hehe.

I only mentioned the most memorable moments of the trip. There was much more adventure and silliness jam packed in those few weeks.

More photos are in my flickr set.

xo, jill

Bonjour, France!

2011-08-30T00:00:00.003+04:00

When I was a senior in high school we were required to complete a Senior Project. The project was a combination of a research paper, volunteer hours, and a final presentation. I decided to use this opportunity to get myself to France. I researched anti-Semitism in the country, used my volunteer hours to organize a school trip there, and presented to the community the importance of recognizing both the good and bad in cultures. It was a lot of hard work... but who wouldn't put out a little effort for a trip to France?

So, after studying French for 6 years, it was time to actually use it. Unfortunately, the most vivid language memory from the trip is a shopkeeper screaming at my friends and me. I'm not sure what we did to upset him, but I was proud that even through his shouting I could understand his words.

Our trip began in Paris. Seeing the Eiffel Tower for the first time was a pretty special feeling. We hit the major sites including Le Louvre, Montmartre, Sacre Coeur, Notre Dame, and of course Le Tour Eiffel.

I wanted to pee a little.

Part of our group. (I'm in the khaki pants and dark top.)

"Voulez-vous coucher avec moi?"

Below the steps at Sacre Coeur

Notre Dame and one of my favorite photos from this trip.

Stained glass at Notre Dame.

In the Loire Valley we toured a few different chateaus but my favorite was Chenonceau. How beautiful. The ballroom stretches out over the water which creates natural air conditioning.

Chenonceau: Also known as the "Castle of Ladies" for all the women who put their touch on the chateau.

We took the TGV to the south and spent a few days in Nice, Avignon, and Eze. It was nice change from the cool weather in the north.

Roman aqueduct near Avignon, I think.

The walled city of Eze where they lock the gate at night.

Carousel in Nice.

A swim in the Mediterranean.

Traveling with a bazillion students is probably something I never need to do again, but it was quite the memorable trip.

xo, jill